Thursday, February 19, 2009

Waiting for Catastrophes

Last Tuesday and Thursday mornings, a wonderful 25 minute bike ride was had, to and from a primary school that calls itself La Cuchilla, to teach english. The roads are dangerous and the bikes are in bad shape. Wearing a helmet is resisted. Fear of violent crash against the pavement is only had when alone in my room. More experience is needed to learn to be even more alert and safe which ironically will help attenuate or exterminate the fear of death.

Down to my last physical Quetzal, as the Lawrence Bank has discovered that my debit card became compromised. Almost two weeks were spent attempting to withdraw cash from about 6 machines around the city of Xela. Before making the phone call, my host mother, Alejandra thought she might of overheard on the news that a major problem has occured with many banks in Kansas. Something about them being out of money -- we still have the FDIC right?
It should be noted that my person could not and did not confirm the story. No one else has confirmed and there is no time to look it up. Amidst the US-led world economic crisis, the worst has been anticipated, though not prepared for.

It now turns out that it was a problem with Visa.

Even if money had been posessed these past couple weeks, not much more would have been bought. No desire exists to go out. Tourist traps abound, and most of the fellow volunteers at the school seem to reveal little enthusiasm for one on one conversations. Is it possible that one on one conversations actually make most people more timid than in large groups? After several attempts at conversation, which should not be had anyway given the need to practice my tortured spanish, most of the volunteers worked with betray an inpeneterable gloominess and tepidity (lack of intellectual curiosity).

This is not a judgement on them (although a couple of them are quite cold), because most of them undoubtedly suffer from what will be referred to here as the ¨fulltime student syndrome¨. They have very little time to enjoy actual academic learning. After an informal studying of this syndrome in friends and acqaintences a hypothesis occured to the the question of why so many mistake my mere average intelligence for above average intelligence: it´s because at the end of most days my embodied mind is not as fatigued as theirs. Having slightly less than a full two years of actual formal university training as allowed more time to enjoy the intellectual discoveries made and discuss them

After studying and teaching, the days are spent in my bedroom trudging trough ¨cien años de soledad¨, 495 pages in over three weeks. The richness of the vocabulary is amazing and maddening. Looking at the english translation by Gregory Rabassa, it is obvious that he grew lazy at times omitting whole sentences or replacing words to get the idea of the function of an object across to the english reader rather than also allow its aesthetic properties to carry over.

When breaks are taken, capricious and sometimes half hearted attempts at writing are made. Reading poetry in english is strictly reserved for the toilet. Attempts at conversation with Sedi (Alejandra) and Estuardo are made, but seldom successful; there was a night in which an explanation of the health care system in the US and the proposed Single Payer plan was given. Another night where comprehension of their religion was gained. Comprehension of the sentences which formed a theological view point taken in the evangelical church they attend (not that religion as a practice will ever make sense to me).

Overall the lesson learned is that my body should have been armed with a vocabulary used by young parents. Everything revolves around little David Estuardo, also affectionately called, ¨Pappy¨ and ¨Nini¨. El Nahual, contrary to what is indicated by their website, is currently functioning ONLY as a school (english, spanish, art and cooking) with a garden and a construction site for a new building. It is hard to practice Spanish with kids who are either there to learn from you or ride your shoulders. Nothing to talk about.

And fuck the weather 365 days and 20 Nahuals over!! Though it must be qualified that the wind´s impact on the accumulation of dust in conflict with our bearings is something to behold.

It would be nice to meet one more guatemalteca who could at least humor me with some plàtica (conversation). There are two females reappearing in my fantasies and they are both great friends in Lawrence. Knowing that deep bonds with native Spanish speakers are impossible to make in the three weeks that are left, Lawrence is finally missed.

Inside my head is much more comfortable. It has managed to house a lot of dreams in Spanish. But thinking in it requires much more.

Failure. A big headache is forming and it could not be dehydration. Weeks have passed since yellow has been pissed. ¿A donde se va desde aqui?

Coming soon: either a story from one of those previously surrendered titles, or an article about a progressive model of education witnessed at a school. Pedogogy in general as gotten into the gears, possibly replacing butterflies on my list of infinite would be hobbies.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

a lecture from Zadie Smith...

...an amazing writer (also, a novelist)not much older than myself. before you read it, you are urged to read this not as a take on what our (us gringos)political future has in store. It is a wonderful addition to the ongoing culture wars as it affirms very cleverly and undogmatically the value of pluralism. Her essay happens to be about the current president of the USA, Barack Obama, but it is actually a very astute take on human identity and refreshing denouncement of the small mindedness of those whose expectations of others are always limited by the assumption that a human being is a fixed personality who can only speak with one voice. By voice, we are refering to tone, syntax and most importantly, sensebility.

After quoting ¨passages in his book, ¨Dreams of My Father¨, passages in which Obama quotes himself from youth sounding like a stereotypical American inner city black youth, Smith writes:

¨The tale he tells is all about addition. His is the story of a genuinely many-voiced man. If it has a moral it is that each man must be true to his selves, plural.¨

This is the, if not political genius, the personable genius of Obama who is able to address empathetically without being gushy the multiplicity in others and not simply the archetypal and for-all-too-long-pretended singularity of the multitude. She puts Obama in the company of Shakespeare and George Savile, 1st Marquess of Halifax the famous English statesman in the sense of their ability to function as ¨philosophical historians¨. She then turns to developing her theory of how this role comes into being:

¨The first stage in the evolution is contingent and cannot be contrived. In this first stage, the voice, by no fault of its own, finds itself trapped between two poles, two competing belief systems. And so this first stage necessitates the second: the voice learns to be flexible between these two fixed points, even to the point of equivocation. Then the third stage: this native flexibility leads to a sense of being able to "see a thing from both sides." And then the final stage, which I think of as the mark of a certain kind of genius: the voice relinquishes ownership of itself, develops a creative sense of disassociation in which the claims that are particular to it seem no stronger than anyone else's. There it is, my little theory—I'd rather call it a story. It is a story about a wonderful voice, occasionally used by citizens, rarely by men of power. Amidst the din of the 2008 culture wars it proved especially hard to hear.¨

Earlier on, Smith notes that the multivoiced quality that the ¨philosophical historian¨, a term coined by a historian of Halifax, defined for Smith´s article´s purpose as someone who ¨always saw passing events, not in the point of view in which they commonly appear to one who bears a part in them, but in the point of view in which, after the lapse of many years, they appear to the philosophic historian.¨This type of being requires is something that we generally dislike in politicians but love in our artists. She is hoping Obama embraces the artist in him--namely the poet. According to her, that will make him a better statesman to the world. Her point is well taken.

But the illusion of singularity which makes a shallow and conformist type of patriotism (you know the type) so popular can easily be reinforced when a president is trying to keep a majority together. A majority is kept together by staying on message and speaking with one voice. Of course this goes back to a point alluded to last month: that those at the grasroots, the PROGRESSIVE CONSTITUENCY in its perpetual state of becoming, will have to engage in their dialogue and provide a ramrod counter to those mediocore and ugly elements that keep us stupid (and certainly unhealthy). They also have Obama´s ear. Regarding the political future, the future of the world (with the US still at the driver´s seat) the devil is in the details.

But it´s nice that Smith uses the current President (obviously way more popular than any poet and all of art and Literature) as a springboard for discussing a point that is all too often lost in the midst of the majority of people cowardly trying to fit into extrinsic personality molds that are directly harmful to human instincts--and by extension, our world(s)

Sunday, February 8, 2009

What´s worth saving?

¨...the world is hungry and not concerned with culture, and that the attempt to orient toward culture thoughts turned only toward hunger is a purely artificial expedient.

¨What is more important, it seems to me, is not so much to defend a culture whose existence has never kept a man from going hungry, as to extract, from what is called culture, ideas whose compelling force is identical with that of hunger.¨

This comes from ¨The Theatre And Its Double¨, by Antonin Artaud. The words have stuck in the craw for a long time.

later in the same piece, he writes:
¨We must insist upon the idea of culture-in-action, of culture growing within us like a new organ, a sort of second breath: and on civilization as an applied culture controlling even our subtlest actions, a presence of mind; the distinction between culture and civilization is an artificial one, providing two words to signify an identical function.¨

Änd a little later:
¨A civilized man judges and is judged according to his behavior, but even the term "civilized" leads to confusion: a cultivated "civilized" man is regarded as a person instructed in systems, a person who thinks in forms, signs, representations – a monster whose faculty of deriving thoughts from acts, instead of identifying acts with thoughts, is developed to an absurdity.¨

It is shocking how steadfast he was in acting under the belief, or at least the desire to change the world with art. Especially given his proposals for doing away with written language, which came from his erroneous view that thinking is independent of language.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Speaking of cultures disappearing

Watch this trailer.


The only thing that should be mentioned is that all of the amazing beautiful Cambodian rock would not have been possible were it not for the brutal US invasion of Vietnam. The US military rock radio stations blasted next door.

Ambiguous expressions of indigenous pride

In the town of Todos Santos Cuchumatán lives a Mam community

Every November a big group of Jintes (manly horse back riders) celebrate what is called La Carrera. It is a 300 KM race around town on horses, in which, while insanely drunk and carrying a rooster in the hand, they try to balance themselves. On the night before,they have a ritual in preparation for the expected death of at least one of their fellow Jintes. They wear very elaborate and colorful costumes (big hats included)which you can view here if you scroll down.

They have been doing this for at least 300 years. The story goes back to the peak of colonial oppression from the Spanish. It was they who brought the horses to the western hemisphere. The belief was that indigenous people could not ride horses. The Mam proved them wrong. It is how they identify themselves. The act alone is something to behold. The only object is to survive and if possible stay atop the horse by the end of the race.

To me it´s another revealing example of a certain aspect of the compexities of a world-surviving-in-the-post-colonial-era. It is complex provided that we can see that the values with which many persons identify themselves in activities and things that come from Spain the conquistedores.

Generally, when a society has a culture through which it can celebrate itself in grand spectacles we view it as a healthy thing. A proud people entails a proud individual. It seems impossible not to view a people from the prism of an individual body, the word self esteem lingers, extending to the body of a group of people. The Jinetes say they do La Carrera for honor. Which is when the presence of self esteem goes without saying...or is honor only a glorified version of...it´s a literary prejudice of mine: honor is such an archaic word for a vanity that is not kept sufficiently inward. It´s not clear to me what significance La Carrera has to the participants, but from what has been read they seem to enjoy it.

My current spanish teacher and friend, Angel prefaced his introduction to them, which was a small article in the Quetzaltenango newspaper, by saying that there was huge support in Todos Santos for the old military regime. Obviously a machismo exists in large quantity. It should be noted that Angel is very bookish and perhaps even dovish. He has a very sober and cool temprament, but by the way the conversations start --he loves to talk about all sorts of things (Frankly he´s the first Guatemalan that has peaked my instincts for real friendship)-- he´s not unaware of the fact that we live in a world where sports is much more popular than art and academics. So the bias surrounding the story of the Jinetes should be taken into account.

Archelogical evidence does show that the Mam were quite the warriors. Interestingly enough, by the time the Spaniards settled in the area, the Mam were tamed and reduced in numbers by Catholic missionaries and not by violent invasion.

The idea of a slave beating his master at his own game is certainly appealing. The 2002 world cup comes to mind when Senegal defeated France. The Pakistani and indian cricket teams who occasionally give the Brits a whipping. And almost every sport in the US! The idea of a people celebrating itself by in this rough fashion, a couple fifths of rum in the tank on a rapid horse with arms flailing in the air amidst the screams of roosters, in and of itself is exciting to me. That it is a self conscious indigenous people requires some more background.

If you have not done so, click here to see the clothing. It is supposedly traditional. But according to Angel, there exists quite a lot of evidence that this clothing originated from Spain. There is no evidence indicating that the Mayans made or wore pants until after the arrival of the spaniards.

But what other people on earth dress like this today? And the clothing is distinct from the 21 other ethnic groups (they all are, it doesn´t take long to notice) In a manner of a few hundred years of habits, the Mam have distinguished themselves. All cultures reflect certain values. But where do those values come from? Are not the ways in which those values expressed merely incidental to the values themselves? If the only path on which a foreigner can verify those values is through viewing the persons when the express them, does it even matter that the horses and clothing came from Spain or that the happiness shown on the Jinetes´ faces after the ride has something to do with measuring up to the strength of the Spanish?

The perception on the part of us culture canibals is often amiss. We get too bogged down by the taxonomised epochs established by archiologists and historians and assume that one time period spells the end of everything that came before. A people´s culture still lives on simultaneously with its destruction. One only has too look at the present day rituals of many Mayans to see how much the spanish missionaries had to conform to Mayan beliefs to get any of their christy message across. The overall impression received is that what is esteemed aesthetically is not pure to a region or race, but highly mongrelized (Literature may be an exception in many parts of the world, but we should also consider the timeframe through which we´ve arrived at our current veranculars).

It is easy to point out the irony: that these people, the Mam are celebrating something that is contingent on the domination of the old way of life. What weighs more is that the old customs (whatever they were) are lost and can never be recovered. However, it seems more important that the individual be the measure rather than the more abitrary ethnic group or culture. This is an opinion indigenous to western civilization. It may have its drawbacks. But is the individual being served well in this (or any culture)?

There is not enough information yet to give a just assesment of La Carrera itself. There is broader issue of indigenous identity. Amidst the intense racism that still exists in this country, it would hard to make the following conclusion that is local to the assimilation animating US: that culture and ethnicity do not matter. The divisions, the poverty and illiteracy in Central America run so deep--what else is there to fill the void? The arts and the humanities are not funded. The business of professional sports, like the government, is filled with corruption. That leaves the church and the lifestyle models presented from abroad in a convenient store, television program near y...me.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Cambodia still rocks

While looking for old psychadelic music from around the world, I found this to watch and listen.

Random things out of desparate fear of not writing anything in english for over a week.

No thing has smelled like my sister just coming out of the bathroom since my self was little. It was a bitter smell which at the time was asumed to be the universal smell of all pubescent women. The truth is that it is inextricably associated with other things as well. Admitedly, if the smell came across the olfactory apparatus again, it would be greeted with much nostalgic pleasure. It is fitting that she is such an amazing and power figure. Everyone agrees. not sure if she´s retained any bit of that scent.

Funny how my gaining on her in height (what age 13, 14...) was not only a non event, there is no memory of the awareness.

True events always involve a 2nd party´s participation (readers of Hegel and Bakhtin will doubly understand).

¨Baby, if I could just convince you to hold up this plastic cradle for the symbolic sacrifice of the nostalgia of adolescence that I have just birthed, our diaspora would set its course.¨

You´d be amazed at how many people show zero interest in the notion of a potentially new culture lying within each individual. Or no you wouldn´t. The amazement is mine.

But what about the notion each set of two individuals containing the seeds for a potentially new culture?

The funny thing is that this particular loftiness is not coming from someone who is miserable in his resistence to accept the world as it is.

10 short story titles with synopses

TOWER ON APHASIA

A first person narrative account of an adolescent orphan attempting to preserve the creation of the dialect he shares with four other --to be named-- persons amidst the serving out of juvenile court mandated communtity service


REGRESSION PLACE

Story about a young married couple`s trip to a theme park in which adults can experience the life of a baby infant


SPAGHETTI STRAPS

A retired social worker runs away from her abusive and indifferent family to rediscover her white trash roots.

ENDOCRINE BY NUMBER

A young physically immature Lawyer turns to con artesanry to build intimate relationships with younger people, but his partner at the law firm makes things complicated.


LEGS, THE PERSON TO TALK TO

An amusing story about 1 city block told from the point of view from a pair of legs


SUPLICAS DEL MURO DEL CEMETARIO

About the erotic experience of being mugged at knife point


IN THE MOLD OF CERTAIN DISTRACTION

A young alluring border in the house of a working family in a mining community becomes the object of everyone´s schaudenfraude after making deals with the town´s de facto story teller.


INVOLUNTARY TRUST

A community garden turns into an unforseen nightmare when the trophy wife of it´s executive director becomes supervisor.


DEATH WITH LESSONS

A young intellectual tries to convince himself and others of a conspiracy behind the death of a well loved professor


KARINA REVALES

A nymphet of a Honduran mercado owner makes a startling self discovery after using her beauty to win attension from customers.